From Port Moresby to Vanimo. From terrifying storm to ocean so quiet I dare not whisper. From flesh eating infection to warm, body drying sun of late afternoon. From pseudo shark attack to a clown fish, peeping from the reef and questioning, rightly, who really is the clown. From allegations of piracy to a grandmother crying for a stranger upon her shores. It was a journey not counted by kilometres or even days, but by people, villages, beaches and bilums. The 2300km journey around PNG, the first under the Expedition Class banner, was a wonderful success (except the part where I was in hospital). We learnt more not only about climate change but a different culture, a beautiful environment and the challenges of a remote expedition.